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New York City, New York. 2. |
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| Now Europeans and New Yorkers
who head up on weekends to its music clubs, something few would've even
considered just a few years ago. Still, since distances between Harlem's
attractions are long and there are some unsafe areas between them, it
can be a good idea to join a group tour, especially if it's your first
time in New York. |
| Little Italy.
Little Italy, just as ethnic if not quite so vibrant,
and compelling for its own culinary treats. Traditionally the area east
of Broadway between Houston and Canal streets, the community is shrinking
today, due to the encroachment of thriving Chinatown. It's now limited
mainly to Mulberry Street, where you'll find most restaurants, and just
a few offshoots. To reach Little Italy, your best bet is to walk up Mulberry
Street from the Grand Street Station, or east from the Spring Street station
on the no. 6 line. September, when Mulberry Street comes alive during
the Feast of San Gennaro, is a great time to visit. |
Lower
East Side. Of all the successive waves
of immigrants and refugees who passed through this densely populated tenement
neighborhood from the mid-19th century to the 1920s, the Eastern European
Jews left the most lasting impression here. Drugs and crime ultimately
supplanted the Jewish communities, which first popped up between Houston
and Canal streets, east of the Bowery, dragging the Lower East Side into
the gutter--until recently, that is. The neighborhood has experienced
quite a renaissance over the last few years; lots of hip Generation Y-targeted
bars, clubs, and boutiques have sprung up, prompting complaints from old-time
residents who seem to have preferred the desolation and crime of the old
days. Still, the area can be dicey in spots--not to mention more than
a tad grungy--and should be explored with caution after dark. |
Upper West Side.
North of 59th Street and encompassing everything
west of Central Park, the Upper West Side contains Lincoln Center, arguably
the world's premier performing arts venue; the American Museum of Natural
History, whose renovated Dinosaur Halls garner justifiably rave reviews;
and a number of mid priced hotels whose larger-than-Midtown rooms and
nice residential location make them some of the best values in the entire
city. Unlike the more stratified Upper East Side, the Upper West Side
is home to an egalitarian mix of middle-class yuppiedom, laid-back wealth
(lots of celebs and monied media types call the grand apartments along
Central Park West, Home), and ethnic families who were here before the
gentrification. |
Lower
Manhattan: South Street and the Financial District. At one time, this was New York. Originally established by the Dutch in 1625 (hence the city's original name, Nieuw Amsterdam), the first settlements sprung up here, on the southern tip of Manhattan island, and everything uptown was farm country and wilderness. While all that's changed, this is still the best place in the city to search for the past. |
| Greenwich Village. Tree-lined streets crisscross and wind, following ancient streams and cow paths. Each block reveals yet another row of Greek Revival town houses, a well-preserved Federal-style house, or a peaceful courtyard or square. This is "the Village," from Broadway west to the Hudson River, bordered by Houston Street to the south and 14th Street to the north. It defies Manhattan's orderly grid system with streets that predate it, virtually every one choc-a-block with activity, and unless you live here, it may be impossible to master the lay of the land--so be sure to take a map along as you explore. |
Chinatown.
Don't expect to find the purchase of a lifetime on Chinatown's streets, but there's some fun browsing to be had. The fish markets along Canal, Mott, Mulberry, and Elizabeth streets are fun to browse for their bustle and exotica. Dispersed among them (especially along Canal), you'll find a mind-boggling collection of knock-offs: sunglasses, designer bags, and watches. Mott Street, between Pell Street and Chatham Square, boasts the most interesting of Chinatown's off-Canal shopping, with an antiques shop or two dispersed among the tiny storefronts selling blue-and-white Chinese dinnerware. |
© John Robert McNally. March 2003.